Experts Q&A
We discussed with Dr Kristin Neumann, co-founder and CEO of MyMicrobiome and Monica Di Leonardo, Global Cosmetics Regulatory Affairs Coordinator at IMCD Beauty & Personal Care to gain a deeper understanding of how the skin’s microbiome is influencing the latest consumer skincare trend.
What does a healthy skin microbiome mean?
Kristin: The human body is like a microcosm that hosts a large variety of ecosystems. And an intact skin microbiome is the secret to healthy skin.
Our skin hosts over one million microorganisms that play an integral role in fostering a healthy immune system and promoting skin health. A highly populated, balanced and diversified skin microbiome builds a strong barrier that actively prevents normal skin from being colonized by adverse microbes. The skin microbiome is at optimal health when the skin is in balance.
How does a disruption of the skin microbiota cause certain skin conditions?
Kristin: There is a natural equilibrium between all organisms that colonize our body, mostly bacteria, fungi, viruses and yeasts. When the skin microbiome gets out of balance, we call this dysbiosis. Skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, acne, dandruff, alopecia, skin allergies or dermatitis are always correlated with dysbiosis.
From a regulatory point of view, how can we claim a beauty product to be beneficial for the skin microbiome?
Monica: Cosmetic ingredients related to the skin microbiome have garnered a lot of attention lately. Yet, when the Microbiome Joint Working Group, created by the International Cooperation on
Cosmetic Regulation, conducted a survey in 2018 on these emerging ingredients in the marketplace, they noted a lack of definitions of ingredients and finished products working with the microbiome. In
their latest publication in June 2022, they defined four categories: prebiotics, probiotics, postbiotic and parabiotics. These definitions should be taken into consideration when products are claimed as beneficial for the skin microbiome. In my opinion, it’s important to develop a common language to identify these ingredients for future beauty product developments.
When it comes to developing Microbiome-friendly beauty products, what are the challenges associated with it?
Monica: It’s important to understand that microorganisms, in general, require favorable conditions to survive, such as specific nutritional media, appropriate temperature, pH, water activity, and oxygen content, among other things. While kefir, yogurt, and fermented milk are well-known probiotic carriers, their survival in cosmetics may be technically difficult.
Aside from formulation, product manufacturing and storage conditions can have an impact on the stability and viability of probiotics. The preservation strategy must also guarantee consumer safety
while ensuring the viability of the probiotic in the formula.
What opportunities are there for microbiome product development?
Kristin: There is a major opportunity to create products that don’t interfere with the skin’s microbiome using fewer and milder ingredients. Of course, stability may be a challenge, but it is possible to strike the balance between stability and microbiome friendliness. Besides mild preservative systems, alternative packing can also be used.
How do you think skin microbiome-related beauty products will evolve in the next years? (science knowledge, consumer awareness…)
Kristin: We are not yet in a position to relieve a skin condition by modulating the microbiome with a cosmetic product. I like that the beauty industry becomes more scientific. Innovators should keep proceeding down this road. The formulators should always have the microbiome in mind and formulate products as mildly as possible in order to obtain a high-quality product. While a lot of innovations came out in the industry, topics in research have not revealed big news in the last year. When it comes to the beauty space, it is exciting to see that biotechnology is now being used as a tool to create and produce ingredients that are optimized and sustainable. According to a Mintel Study in 2019, 50 % of US customers over 18 years are already interested in using cosmetics that respect the microbiome. A certification mark like MyMicrobiome is creating trust with the customer and guarantees the Microbiome-friendly quality of the product. The consumers’ awareness keeps growing and so will their demand for Microbiome-friendly products – the market will have to adjust.